Located in the heart of the Albanian Alps, the Valbona Valley (Lugina e Valbonës) is a pristine getaway of breathtaking beauty. Majestic peaks, emerald meadows, and the crystal-clear Valbona River create a serene backdrop for nature lovers. The valley has well-marked trails that allow trekkers to explore its peaks and hidden gems, while the warm hospitality of local guesthouses adds an authentic touch.
The largest settlement, Valbona, is situated at the point where the 30-kilometre-long valley opens to make way for pastures and meadows. In addition to many private lodgings, there is a school, several bars and campsites. Bajram Curri, the regional capital of Tropoja, is roughly 25 km away.
Transport to Valbona Valley
The most beautiful way to Vabonë is the one using the ferry via Koman Lake. If you’re setting off from Tirana, the minibus departs as early as 4:50 am to catch the 9:00 am ferry from Koman terminal (the “Dragobi” passenger boat and the “Berisha” car ferry both leave at the same time). Coming from Shkodër, the minibus to Koman leaves before 7:00.
In season, it’s encouraged to book a place on the ferry in advance if you travel by car. From Tirana, expect to drive at least three hours to Koman due to the bad road in the final stretch.
The cruise takes about 2.5 hours. Another minibus will be waiting at the Fierze dock on the other side of the lake to take you to Bajram Curri or straight to Valbonë.
Seasonally, the Koman also departs from Koman at 12:00 on the Alpin ferry (for both passengers and cars). Its service is considered as not entirely reliable, however, because if it doesn’t have enough pre-booked seats, it simply doesn’t leave and you risk getting stuck in Koman without any transport options.
In the opposite direction, i.e. from Fierzë to Koman, the passenger boat departs at 6:00. The car ferry then departs at 13:00. In both cases, minibuses from Koman to Tirana and Shkodër will be waiting for you right at the dock. The ferry Alpin departs from Fierzë at 9:00.
The fastest way from Tirana to Valbona Valley is via Kukës, Kosovo (Prizren, Gjakovë) and back to Albania through the border crossing Qafa e Morinës. A bus also runs at least five times a day along this route (4-5 hours). Between Gjakovë and Bajram Curri, minibuses operate frequently.
If you don’t want to go through Kosovo, there is also the option of turning off at Kukës onto a narrow, winding and not frequently used road through the town of Krumë. It’s about 100 kilometres from Kukës to Bajram Curri, and although it’s shorter than the Kosovo route, it takes longer.
At least once a day, minibuses run from Bajram Curri to Valbonë (at 14:30, returning from Valbonë at 07:00). Other minibuses usually wait in Fierzë for the passengers from the morning ferry. The final stop in the Valbona Valley is at the Fusha e Gjesë hotel where the asphalt ends as well.
Sights in the Valbona Valley
Immediately upon entering the valley from Bajram Curri, you will pass the deeply incised canyon Shoshan (Kanioni i Shoshanit), through which the crystal-clear waters of the Valbona River flow. A short distance away is where the Shoshan stream rises abruptly from the ground (Vrella e Shoshanit), and there is a mill built 120 years ago by the Albanian national hero and fighter for independence from the Ottoman Empire, Bajram Curri (Mulliri i Bajram Currit). Unfortunately, the site is deserted and has lost its former charm.
The Dragobi Cave (Shpella e Dragobisë) on the south side of the valley has a symbolic meaning especially for Albanians, as it represents the place of Bajram Curri’s death. The former commander of the Albanian army after World War I hid here in 1925 from the loyalists of the later Albanian King Zog I. He was tracked down and rather than fall into captivity, he committed suicide.
Rragam (or Rrogam) is the last village in the Valbona Valley and can only be reached on foot or by off-road vehicle. From Fushë e Gjesë hotel it is about three kilometres along a road that runs through the dry riverbed of the Valbona most of the year. The locals here have converted several traditional stone houses into guesthouses. The location makes is an ideal starting point for hikes into the surrounding mountains. The magnificent Valbonës Waterfall (Ujëvara e Valbonës) is located just outside the village.
The village of Çerem is another hidden gem. It lies in a side valley about eight kilometres from the main road. Like Rragam, it is a great place for day hikes. You can climb the 2,556-meter high Kollata Peak from there, for instance.
Three kilometres downstream from the village of Valbonë, in the middle of a forest, among large boulders, there is a small lake called Xhema (Liqeni i Xhemës), characterised by its unusual green-blue colour. On the way, you will pass a beautiful old mill, which can be reached by a narrow footbridge over the river.
Hiking in the Valbona Valley
The ideal starting point for hiking in the Valbona Valley is the Rragam Village. Here starts the easiest route to the Jezerca Peak (Maja e Jezercës, 2694 m, the highest Albanian Alps, map with GPS route here). A pleasant snack bar is open just above the village in high season.
There is also a classic crossing from Rragam to Theth via the Valbona Pass (map with a GPS route here). Towards the south, a not frequently used trail through Qafa e Zhaporës either to the top of Maja e Boshit (2416 m) or to the Nikaj valley. From there, you can then continue to the village of Curraj i Epërm or Theth (difficult).
The village Curraj e Epërm can also be reached from the village of Dragobi via the Ndroçka Pass (map with the GPS route here, difficult).
Directly from Valbonë, a trail leads to one of the highest peaks in the area, Kollata (2552 m), which then continues to Çerem (map with a GPS route, description and photos here). This is a full-day challenging hike that is one of the most beautiful in the entire Albanian Alps.
TIP: If you don’t want to lug around your luggage on your back, you can hire mules or horses from Thethi Guide. This option is usually used for transitions from Valbonë to Theth. The same agency can also arrange a local guide or transport by car to places around Valbona.
Useful Links
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Experiences
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