Valbona Valley

Located in the heart of the Albanian Alps, the Valbona Valley (Lugina e Valbonës) is a pristine getaway of breathtaking beauty. Majestic peaks, emerald meadows, and the crystal-clear Valbona River create a serene backdrop for nature lovers. The valley has well-marked trails that allow trekkers to explore its peaks and hidden gems, while the warm hospitality of local guesthouses adds an authentic touch.

The largest settlement, Valbona, is situated at the point where the 30-kilometre-long valley opens to make way for pastures and meadows. In addition to many private lodgings, there is a school, several bars and campsites. Bajram Curri, the regional capital of Tropoja, is roughly 25 km away.

 

Transport to Valbona Valley

The most natural and also the most beautiful way to Vabonë is by taking the ferry across Koman Lake. The cruise takes about 2.5 hours.

Starting from Tirana, you need to set off early. The minibus departs at 4:50 am to catch the ferry leaving Koman at 9:00 (the passenger boat and the car ferry leave at the same time). The whole journey from Tirana to Valbonë costs about 30 euros. If you start from Shkodër, the minibus to Koman leaves before 7:00am from the Rozafa Hotel, the cost is about 25 euros to get to Valbonë.

There will be other minibuses waiting at the Fierzë dock on the northern side of the lake to take you to Bajram Curri or straight to Valbonë.

In the other direction (from Fierzë to Koman) the passenger boat departs at 6:00 am and the car ferry at 1:00 pm. In both cases, minibuses to Tirana and Shkodër will be waiting at the Koman port.

Tickets for the ferry and the connecting minibus services can be booked on the website of the ferry operator, the Berisha Company.

Travelling with a car, due to limited capacity on the ferries it is a good to make an online booking in any case. The price per vehicle is around 25 euros depending on its size. Expect to drive for at least three and a half hours from Tirana to Koman due to the terrible road in the final stretch.

In high season, the Alpin ferry (for passengers and cars) departs from Koman at 12:00 daily, returning the next day from Fierzë at 9:00 am. This ferry is a bit more expensive and not very reliable outside the high season – if it doesn’t sell enough tickets, it simply doesn’t go. To be sure, contact the company via WhatsApp before you start your journey.

The fastest way from Tirana to Valbonë is via the highway to Kukës, Gjakovë in Kosovo and the Qafa e Morinës border crossing. A bus runs five times a day along this route (1000 lek, takes more than 4 hours). Minibuses also run regularly between Gjakovë and Bajram Curri.

If you don’t want to go through Kosovo from Kukës, you can take a narrow, winding road via the town of Krumë. It is about 100 kilometres from Kukës to Bajram Curri, and although it is shorter than the Kosovo route, it takes about half an hour longer.

At least once a day minibuses run from Bajram Curri to Valbonë (at 2:30 pm, returning from Valbonë at 07:00 am the next day). Other minibuses usually wait in Fierzë for the morning ferry on the Koman Lake. The final stop in the Valbona Valley is at the mountain hotel Fusha e Gjesë, where the asphalt ends.

 

Sights in the Valbona Valley

Immediately upon entering the valley, you will pass the Shoshan Gorge (Kanioni i Shoshanit), through which the turquoise waters of the Valbona River flow. At the bridge (on the right bank) you can walk down from the car park to the river, which creates beautiful pools ideal for swimming.

The Dragobi Cave (Shpella e Dragobisë) on the southern side of the valley has symbolic significance especially for Albanians, as it represents the place of Bajram Curri’s death. The former commander of the Albanian army after World War I hid here in 1925 from the followers of the later Albanian King Zog I. He was tracked down, however, and committed suicide rather than fall into captivity.

Rragam (sometimes also refered as Rrogam) is the last village in the Valbona Valley and can only be reached on foot or by off-road vehicle. From Fusha e Gjesë, where asphalt ends, it is a over 3 km along a road that runs through the dry riverbed of the Valbona River most of the year. Locals here have converted several traditional stone houses into guesthouses, while the location makes them ideal starting point for hikes into the surrounding mountains. A short distance outside the village you will find the stunning Valbona Waterfall (Ujëvara e Valbonës or Ujëvara e Rragamit).

Çerem is another picturesque village of Valbona Valley. It is situated in a side valley about eight kilometres from the main road. You can get there on foot or by off-road vehicle. Like Rragam, it is a great place for hiking as there are several guesthouses. Head to the 2,556-metre-high Maja e Kollatës on the border with Montenegro or to the picturesque settlement of Dobërdol.

Like Çerem and Rragam, Kukaj is a mountain village, accessible from Valbonë (3 km) only on foot or by off-road car. The Rosi guesthouse offers spectacular views and is also a great starting point for an ascent on Maja e Rosit mountain.

About three kilometres downstream from the village of Valbonë, the small Xhema Lake (Liqeni i Xhemës) is located in the middle of the forest among large boulders. It is characterised by its unusual green-blue colour. On the way, you will pass a beautiful old mill, which can be reached by a narrow footbridge over the river. A few dozen metres upstream, there is a nice place to take a bath in the river.

A truly hidden gem of Valbona Valley is a place called Snake Meadows (Livadhet e Gjarpërit). From an altitude of 1,200 metres, you will have the valley in the palm of your hand. Stay at Arif Kadri‘s guesthouse, which is as a great example of Albanian agro-tourism. No luxury, but incredible hospitality, organic food, tranquillity and fantastic views. You can also go horse riding from there. There is a 6 km long road from the valley to the guesthouse, suitable only for off-road vehicles. The owners usually pick up clients at the roadside for a fee. From Snake Meadows, you can hike through beautiful mountain scenery to Çerem or Dobërdol in one day.

 

Hiking in the Valbona Valley

The village of Rragam is an ideal starting point for hiking in the Valbona Valley. From here, the easiest route starts to the highest mountain of the Albanian Alps, Maja e Jezercës (see map). The hike is not technically difficult (except one short stretch with a rope), but good shape is required.

Another of the valley’s mountain landmarks, Maja e Kollatës, can be climbed either directly from Valbonë or from Çerem (see map). The neighbouring peak of Maja e Rosit is best reached from Kukaj (see map). About halfway there is a shepherd’s hut serving refreshments in season. Both climbs take a full day, and are rather challenging undertakings in terms of physical fitness.

The most popular of the multi-day hikes is by far the one from Valbonë over the Valbona Pass to Theth. Around an hour above Rragam village, a cafeteria with camping and refreshments is open in season. This trek is part of the increasingly popular Peaks of the Balkans trail, which also takes you to Çerem and the settlement of Dobërdol on the tri-border of Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo.

Another option is to cross from Dragobi in the Valbona valley to the semi-deserted village of Curraj e Epërm. Compared to the above treks, it is less walked and the trail, however well marked, tends to be overgrown in places.

 

 

Map of Valbona Valley

View Fullscreen

Booking.com