One of Albania’s most stunning and remote mountain ranges is Valamara (Mali i Valamarës). The summit with its 2,373 meters offers fantastic views over the surrounding area. It is an ideal destination for those who want to enjoy the unspoilt beauty of the mountains without crowds of tourists. Start in the picturesque village of Grabova e Sipërme.
The Valamara massif is part of the Central Albanian mountain range, which stretches from the bend of the Drin River to the Greek border. Similar to the more northerly Lura National Park, Valamara is abundant with lakes that were once formed by a glacier. Both areas also face the same problem: illegal logging.
The ideal starting point for a trip to the summit of Valamara is the mountain village of Grabova e Sipërme (Upper Grabova). The hike is rather easy, lasting around five hours in total.
Grabova e Sipërme is worth a visit in itself due to its mountainous surroundings and the impressive Kopaç Gorge (Gryka e Kopaçit), which looks like a hill cut in two pieces. The 18th-century Church of St. Nicholas (Kisha e Shën Kollit) has a beautifully decorated wooden ceiling.
You can find accommodation in the cosy Hotel Grabova, which sits on a hill a couple of hundred meters above the village. The owner is an experienced mountaineer who knows literary every stone in the area and can recommend the appropriate hike in the Valamara Mountains.
The village is situated less than 40 kilometres from Gramsh. For the last stretch of about six kilometres from the crossroads in the village of Grabovë e Poshtme (Lower Grabova) you need a high-clearance vehicle.
If you don’t have an off-road car, drive to the nearby village of Lenie, which is the end of a decent gravel road. Once a day there is a minibus to Lenie from Gramsh (leaves from the hospital at 13:00, returning from Lenie at 6:30 a.m.). From Lenie it is about a 1.5-hour walk to Upper Grabova.
TIP: At the Refati restaurant in Gramsh, you can arrange a jeep taxi to take you to Upper Grabova. The round trip will cost 6000 leks. The transport can be arranged with the Hotel Grabova as well.
From Lenie, you can do a beautiful 24km-long circular hike via Upper Grabova, Valamara Summit and Black Lake (Liqeni i Zi). See map.
TIP: On the way from Gramsh to Lenie, make a detour and (if you have a 4×4) drive to the glacial lake Liqeni i Dushkut (Oak Lake). It is located at about 1100 metres above sea level and its surface is partly covered with reeds and water lilies. Just below it, you can stay at the Bio Farm, which offers horseback riding, mountain biking, off-roading and quad biking, among other activities.
Useful Links
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