Kolonjë

Kolonjë is a vast region that extends along the Greek border south of Korçë. The landscape is mostly deserted, but rich in natural and cultural beauty. The centre of the area is Ersekë, which, at over 1,000 metres above sea level, is the highest town in Albania. Don’t miss the picturesque mountain villages, the rugged Gramoz Mountains or the thermal springs of Sarandopor.

The region is criss-crossed from north to south by a scenic mountain road full of serpentine switchbacks, which is an experience in itself. A new, more direct section from Korçë to Ersekë is being completed and the route from Ersekë on to Leskovik has been resurfaced after years of neglect.

There’s not much to see in Ersekë itself, apart from the partisans’ memorial and the Museum of Ersekë (Muzeu i Ersekës, open Mon-Fri 10-14, August 11-14), which exhibits ethnographic objects in a building on the main square. It will also give you an insight into the history of this border region. Minibuses run between Korçë and Ersekë several times a day, and a bus also passes through once a day from Korçë to Përmet and Gjirokastër.

During World War II, Kolonja was an area of fighting between Greek and Italian troops and later became a centre of anti-fascist resistance. German soldiers, who occupied Albania after the surrender of Italy, murdered inhabitants of several villages to discourage others from supporting the guerrillas. In the summer of 1943, 107 residents of the village of Borovë were slaughtered in retaliation for an insurgent attack on a German military column. Not even women and small children were spared, the village was burned and almost completely razed to the ground. Today there is an impressive memorial on the site of the massacre, which you can find just off the main road.

Stretching like a giant natural wall along Kolonjë’s eastern border are the Gramoz Mountains, which also serve as the border between Greece and Albania. At 2,523 metres above sea level, the highest mountain of the region and south Albania as such is Çuka e Peçit. The mountains are rugged, the higher parts are completely devoid of vegetation and there is usually a lot of snow in winter. The settlement of Starje, which is where a decent asphalt road from Ersekë ends, is the ideal place to start hikes into the mountains. It takes 6-7 hours to reach the summit from there (see map with GPS route).

Rehovë is another picturesque village in the vicinity of Ersekë. It has been included in the “100 Villages” project promoting tourism in the countryside. Most of the houses here are built of stone using the traditional method without the use of mortar. Rehovë village is also a convenient starting point for the hikes in the Gramoz Mountains. There is also at least one guesthouse in the village.

If you follow the main road from Ersekë further south towards Leskovik, you’ll come across the eco-friendly Sotira Farm at the most remote point on the route. It is located on meadows surrounded by deep forests. Although it’s right next to the road (it’s not very busy anyway), you’ll feel like you’re in the middle of the wilderness. For 10 euros per hour you can ride a horse (see the complete offer) or taste organic food (the owners breed cows, sheep, trout and other animals). You can sleep in wooden cabins or a tent, accommodation can be booked here.

At the southernmost tip of the region, near the town of Leskovik, are the thermal springs of Sarandopor, which are called the “pearl of Kolonja” by the locals. They can serve as an alternative for those who find the thermal springs in nearby Bënjë too crowded. The springs are located in the gorge of the river Sarandopor on the Greek border, not far from the Tre Urat border crossing.

TIP: The best accommoditation option in Leskovik is Malesin Destilery, a hotel, restaurant, and distillery in one. Italian-made copper stills in a renovated industrial building refine local raki and gin from Albanian grapes and juniper berries, aiming to elevate “Made in Albania” spirits and put the region on the map for craft alcohol. The project blends tradition with innovation, offering a modern take on traditional drinks and showcasing locally sourced ingredients in a stylish setting.

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