Theth is a picturesque village in the heart of the Albanian Alps, surrounded by mountain ridges over 2,000 metres high. In recent years, it has become a lively tourist resort, one of the most visited places in Albania. Theth’s appeal lies not only in its magical location amidst the mountains but also in its many cultural and natural attractions.
The range of accommodation at Theth is extensive and growing year on year. You’ll find campsites, simple guest rooms and even a four-star hotel. In total, there have been dozens of guesthouses, most of which also provide meals, often local specialities. There are also several restaurants and a grocery store in the village.
Transport to Theth
There is now a good asphalt road from Shkodër to Theth, which winds through numerous switchbacks and passes over the Thores Pass, one of Albania’s highest points accessible by car, with an altitude of 1775 meters. The road is usually closed from November to May due to heavy snowfall at higher elevations.
The road leading from Theth about six kilometres south to the picturesque village of Ndërlysaj has also been asphalted.
You can get to Theth by minibus from Shkodër, which in high season departs from the Malësia e Madhe restaurant in the northern suburb of Rus Maxhar around 7 am, but will usually pick you up at your hotel by arrangement. The journey takes about two hours and costs 10 euros. The minibus returns to Shkodër at 12:30 pm.
The road heading to Theth from the south along the Shala River is extremely beautiful, but due to its poor condition, it is only suitable for off-road vehicles. Locals rarely use it, except in cases of emergency or during winter.
Sights in Theth
Like most of the municipalities in the central, southern and western parts of the Albanian Alps, Theth is inhabited mostly by Catholics. The iconic Franciscan Church, built in 1892, is the centrepiece and symbol of the village. When completed, it was a small complex of buildings, which included a school and accommodation for priests. During the communism, the church fell into disrepair and was converted into a health centre. After the regime collapsed, it was renovated with money from Theth natives living in the United States.
The nearby three-storey tower house (Kulla e Ngujimit) is one of the few surviving buildings of this type in Albania. In the past, it served as a refuge in times of blood feuds. It was usually used by entire families whose members were threatened with being killed. The only windows are portholes, which the inhabitants could use to defend themselves if necessary.
The Ethnographic Museum (Muzeu Ethnografik, entrance 200 leks) is located in a traditional fortified house of the highlanders. It stands on top of a nine-metre-high rock. Here you can get an idea of how a typical dwelling was arranged. The ground floor housed the cattle shed, while the first floor was where the family lived. There is also a guest room (oda), which was usually the best-arranged room of the house.
Located approximately two kilometres to the south of the museum, the Grunas Canyon (Kanioni i Grunasit) is a 60-meter-deep ravine that occasionally spans just two metres. A waterfall (Ujëvara e Grunasit) with a height of 30 metres can be found less than a kilometre above the canyon.
The stone bathtubs (Vaskat e Gurit), located on one of the tributaries of the Shala River, are another uncommon natural phenomenon that can be found just beyond the settlement of Ndërlysaj if you proceed further south. It’s a riverbed made of stone that the water has shaped into many forms; taken as a whole, it resembles a little rock city. There’s a very nice restaurant right next door. You can park your car nearby.
The most well-known tourist destination in the Theth region is arguably the so-called Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), which is located close to the village of Kaprreja, two km upstream from Ndërlysaj. It is a tiny waterfall that cascades into an azure-coloured pond. You can swim in it if you don’t mind the chilly water; it’s about 4 metres deep. This is not to be confused with the same-named spring at Saranda, in southern Albania.
TIP: Combine all these attractions into one day trip. It’s not very demanding, and there are several places where you can refresh yourself in the restaurant. With all the stops, it will take you about eight hours. For a map with the GPS route, see here. Alternatively, you can shorten the trip by taking the local minibus to Ndërlysaj (€5/person round trip in high season).
Hiking in Theth
The most popular hike that visitors to Theth take is the hike to Valbona Valley via the Valbone Pass (Qafa e Valbonës, 1,795 m). The trail is steep but easy (in season you’ll pass two refreshment stations with drinks and something to eat), heavily hiked, and well-marked. The approximately 14km route will take you six to seven hours. For a map with the GPS route, see here.
The ascent to the highest mountain of the Albanian Alps, Maja e Jezercës (2694 m), is better to divide into two days, as you will have more than 2300 meters of altitude and at least 14 hours of walking. One route leads from Theth via the Valbona Pass (map with GPS route here), the other via the Peja Pass (Qafa e Pejës, for map with GPS route, see here).
Peja Pass is also the place through which the hiking trail from Montenegro leads to Theth. You will also pass through it when climbing the landmark of the Theth Valley, Maja e Arapit peak with its 800-metre-high wall (map with GPS route and description here).
Very popular among tourists is the two-day trek from Theth through the village of Nikç to Lepushë in the Kelmend region. You can stay in a guesthouse in Nikç, so you don’t have to carry all the camping stuff. It is a moderately challenging venture, with the first day in particular being a strenuous hike with a lot of elevation gain. A map with the GPS route can be found here and here.
A beautiful, but considerably more challenging, one-day route leads from Theh directly to Lepushë. Some even consider it the most beautiful hike in the Albanian Alps. The marked trail leads through stunning mountain scenery but climbs over considerable elevation and the terrain is challenging to navigate in places. At one point the trail passes through a snowfield that does not melt even in summer. The 10- to 12-hour hike is recommended only for experienced and hardy hikers (a map with GPS route and a few photos can be found here).
A marked path heading southeast from Theth takes you to the semi-deserted village of Curraj i Epërm (accommodation available). The very strenuous journey with sections full of overgrown greenery will take you a full day, then you can continue to the village of Lekbibaj at Lake Koman.
TIP: If you don’t want to lug your stuff on your back, there’s a possibility to rent mules or horses from the Thethi Guide agency. This option is usually used for hikefrom Theth to Valbonë or Lepushë. The same agency can also arrange a local guide or transfer you by car to places around Theth.
Useful Links
Accommodation
Use Booking.com to find the best places to stay in Theth.
Flights
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Car Rental
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Experiences
Book a day trip to Theth on Viator.com.