The region of Tropojë is a beauty with a bad reputation. It’s separated from the rest of Albania by high mountains and vast reservoirs on the Drin River, so any journey there takes a long time. But it’s worth it: the Valbona Valley in the Albanian Alps and Koman Lake are among the most beautiful destinations in the entire country.
4 things not to be missed in Tropojë
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Tropojë has not enjoyed a good reputation in the past. Its geographical isolation in the very north of the country, coupled with the rebellious nature of the local population, meant that the influence of any central government was limited for most of its history. In the 1990s and early 21st century, the region was considered a haven for smugglers and organised crime, which local and foreign visitors preferred to avoid. You may recall the Taken thriller, starring Liam Neeson, as he fights for his daughter against the Albanian mafia. Its members came from – Tropojë!
However, the situation has changed fundamentally over the last decade or more. After 2001, the government in Tirana managed to crack down on local organised crime and since then, the security has been steadily changing for the better. It has also channelled much-needed investment into the poor region, and many locals have turned to tourism, which has become an increasingly important source of livelihood.
Tropojë has strong geographical and social ties with neighbouring Kosovo. It’s not uncommon to have family members here who live across the border.
WARNING: Some areas on the border with today’s Kosovo were partially mined during the Cold War and unexploded ordnance was found. Albania declared in 2009 that all of its territory was mine-free. However, in the border areas in the northeast of the country, it’s better to be cautious and ask the locals if your route is safe.
History of Tropojë
Under Turkish rule, Tropojë was part of the Kosovo Vilayet, a higher administrative unit within the Ottoman Empire. An important trade route passed through it, leading from the Adriatic Sea towards Kosovo and further into the Balkan Peninsula.
The First World War and the subsequent establishment of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (later Yugoslavia), which was granted the territory of present-day Kosovo, caused Tropojë to remain cut off from the region to which it had historically gravitated the most. The city of Gjakovë (Đakovica) in Kosovo then formed a natural administrative, cultural and economic centre of the entire region. To Shkodër, the substitute regional capital, the journey took more than three days.
After the Second World War and the establishment of the communist isolationist regime in Albania, cross-border contacts with Kosovo ceased almost completely. Moreover, due to its strategic location on the border with Yugoslavia, Tropojë became a strictly guarded area with restricted movement of people.
After the fall of communism in the early 1990s, Tropojë experienced turbulent times. The government in Tirana faced economic disruption and largely lost control over the region. The power vacuum meant that the region was controlled mainly by local criminal gangs.
Tropojë has become a haven for smugglers of weapons and various goods into an increasingly restive Kosovo. By the end of the decade, rebels of the Kosovo Liberation Army (UÇK) were also operating there. To make matters worse, during the Kosovo War (1998-1999), Tropojë became a temporary refuge for thousands of Kosovo Albanians seeking refuge from the Serbian forces.
It was not until the beginning of the first decade of the 21st century that the situation stabilized in neighbouring Kosovo and Albania. Since then, Tropojë has been successfully trying to focus on tourism. Nevertheless, it remains a poor region, suffering from heavy emigration due to a lack of employment opportunities.
Transport to Tropojë
The most spectacular way to reach the administrative centre Bajram Curri or the eastern part of the Albanian Alps is by ferry across Koman Lake. The owner operates a minibus service: From Tirana to Koman it departs at 5:00 am from Gazheli Petrol station, from Shkodër at 6:30 am from the intersection of Skënderbeu and Arra e Madhe streets. In Shkodër a minibus can pick you up also at your accommodation by arrangement, in Tirana you have to get to the petrol station. You can book a ferry ticket and arrange a minibus here.
The 2.5-hour cruise offers breathtaking views of the rock cliffs and narrow gorges. At the Fierzë northern terminal, another minibus will be waiting to take you to Bajram Curri or directly to Valbona Valley.
There is also a seasonal ferry “Alpin” at 12:00 (both for people and cars), but it is not very reliable – if it does not have enough seats booked in advance, it simply does not set off and you risk being stuck in Koman without any transport options.
In the opposite direction, i.e. from Fierzë to Koman, the passenger boat departs at 6:00 and the car ferry at 13:00. Minibuses will be waiting for you at the Koman terminal to take you to Tirana and Shkodër. The ferry “Alpin” departs from Fierzë at 9:00.
The fastest route from Tirana to Bajram Curri is by bus via Kukës, Gjakovë (Kosovo) and the Qafa e Morinës border crossing. A operates at least five times a day along this route (1000 lek, journey time 4:15 min). Between Gjakovë and Bajram Curri, minibuses also run approximately every hour.
If you don’t want to go through Kosovo by car or by bus, you can use a narrow, winding asphalt road from Kukës through the town of Krumë. It’s about 100 kilometres from Kukës to Bajram Curri, and although it’s shorter than the Kosovo route, it takes longer.
The vast majority of tourists head from Bajram Curri to Valbona Valley. A minibus runs at least once daily on this route (at 14:30 from Bajram Curri, and at 7:00 in the opposite direction from Valbona). Other minibuses to Valbona Valley usually wait in Fierzë for the morning ferry across Koman Lake. The final stop in Valbony Valley is at the Fushë e Gjesë hotel.
Useful Links
Accommodation
Use Booking.com to find the best places to stay in Tropojë.
Flights
Find the cheapest flight to Albania on Kiwi.com. It combines various airlines into a single itinerary.
Car Rental
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Mobile data
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Experiences
Book a day trip to Tropojë and other experiences on Viator.com.