Kelmend

The mountain region of Kelmend is one of the most beautiful natural spots in Albania. For whatever reason, mass tourism has not yet discovered it, which is one of its biggest assets. Transportation is not a problem because there is now a good road crossing the region up to Vermosh, the northernmost settlement in Albania. The tourist hub of Kelmend is the village of Lepushë, which is ideal for hiking in this part of the Albanian Alps. 

In Kelmend you will find a number of traditional villages, made up of original stone houses scattered across the landscape. Tamarë, the region’s administrative hub, has stores (including ones selling locally grown produce), a post office, and cafés. Supplies can also be purchased in Vermosh. Selcë, Nikç and Vermosh are excellent locations for hiking in the highlands, in addition to Lepushë.

The backbone of Kelmend is the crystal-clear Cem River (Cijevna, in Montenegrin) which flows through deep valleys and gorges and then enters the territory of Montenegro.

 

Transport to Kelmend

From Shkodër there is a beautiful sightseeing SH20 road leading to Kelmend. Recently it has been paved all the way to Vermosh and Montenegro (Grnčar Border Crossing).

The main settlements in Kelmend have daily (except Sunday) connections with Shkodër. A minibus leaves from the Malësia e Madhe restaurant in Shkodër at 14:00 for Vermosh (also passing through Selcë and Tamar)e, returning at 5:00), and a separate minibus leaves at 13:30 for Selcë and Tamarë (returning at 5:30 from Selcë and 6:30 from Tamarë). A direct minibus also runs to Vukël (at 14:30 from Shkodër, back from Vukël at 5:30).

Kelmend is also easily accessible from Montenegro via the year-round open border crossing Bashkim/Grnčar. The Montenegrin town of Gusinje can be reached by public transport from Podgorica and other towns in northern Montenegro, from where it is six kilometres to the border line. On the Albanian side, it’s another three kilometres to the Vermosh-Skadar road. Public transport doesn’t work on this stretch, but you can also use taxis or hitch a ride in one of the Montenegrin cars that often take a shortcut through Albania from Gusinje to the capital.

The newly opened border crossing Grabom/Zatrijebačka Cijevna shortened the journey for those who want to reach Kelmend from Podgorica in Montenegro.

 

Sights in Kelmend

Perhaps Kelmend’s biggest draw is the ride along the road from Shkodër to Vermosh, which is popular with cyclists and motorcyclists thanks to its quality surface. The most beautiful is the serpentine section Leqet e Hotit (there is a viewpoint with a balcony with breathtaking views of the Cem Valley at the highest point).

The village of Tamarë is located under the serpentines, below the steep walls of the surrounding mountains. The village has an information centre about Kelmend, where they can advise you where to buy local produce or help you arrange a local guide. With a guide, you can take a trip to one of the surrounding caves.

An equally charming village lies a few more kilometres upstream of the Cem River. It is called Selcë and through its centre runs the almost one kilometre long and 25 metres deep Gerrla Canyon (Kanioni i Gerrlës). In the vicinity, you can also admire the impressive 30-metre high Sllap Waterfall (Ujëvara e Sllapit, map with GPS route here), which creates beautiful rainbows on sunny days.

The pearl of Kelmend is the village of Lepushë, located on a beautiful mountain meadow, with the Albanian Alps towering over it like a wall. It is ideal for day or multi-day trips as it is at a relatively high altitude of around 1300 metres, and close to the main road from Shkodër (just turn off or be dropped off at the Brodolec Pass). There is a campsite and several guesthouses in Lepushë.

The most remote of Kelmend’s villages is Vermosh. It is a true oasis of peace and unspoiled nature, where few people visit. The settlement is situated at the northernmost tip of Albania at an altitude of around 1000 metres and is usually covered with snow for more than three months of the year.

 

Hiking in Kelmend

The extensive system of marked paths in Kelmend is a major benefit. A raster map with a list of them can be downloaded here.

In the vicinity of Lepushë, the most beautiful hike is the hike Vajusha Peak (Maja e Vajushës or Talijanka in Montenegrin) located on the border with Montenegro. The roughly three-hour climb to the 2,059-metre summit will reward you with a beautiful view of the imposing walls of the Karanfili massif on the Montenegrin side of the mountains. A map with GPS route can be found here.

Another option for a day hike from Lepushë is the crossing to Vermosh via Greben Peak, from where you will have the central part of the Albanian Alps in the palm of your hand. The journey should take you five to six hours. For a map with the GPS route, see here.

Among tourists, the two-day trek from Lepushë through Nikç to Theth is very popular. A big advantage is the possibility of overnighting in the guesthouse in Nikç, so you don’t have to carry all the equipment necessary for camping. It is a moderate undertaking, whereas the second day is more strenuous with high elevation and more difficult terrain. A map with the GPS route can be found here and here.

A beautiful, but considerably more challenging route leads from Lepushë straight to Theth. Some even consider it the most beautiful hike in all of Albania. The journey along a relatively well-marked path leads through truly breathtaking mountain scenery, but it overcomes considerable elevation and the terrain is difficult to navigate in places. At one point the trail passes through a snowfield that does not melt even in summer. The 10- to 12-hour hike can only be recommended for experienced and hardy hikers (a map with a GPS route and some photos can be found here).

You can also make the “valley to valley” crossing from Selcë to Vermosh. The route passes through Jeshnica Mountain, whose slopes are said to have 365 springs, making it a popular destination for shepherds and their herds. There, you may well find a shepherd inviting you to his hut and offering you some of his products. A map with GPS directions can be found here.

Cover photo: Jakub Hrab