Old town of Durrës

The old town of Durrës is a place where the modern and the ancient cohabit. You can easily find modern buildings and trendy cafes right next to ancient sights. A visit to Durrës would not be complete without seeing the mediaeval city walls and the largest Roman amphitheatre in the Balkans.

The 18-metre-high medieval walls of the former Castle of Durrës (Kalaja e Durrësit) date from the 5th to 6th century AD, when the Byzantines ruled the city. But throughout history, it was destroyed, rebuilt and reinforced several times. The ending point of the walls on the waterfront is the Venetian Tower (Kulla Veneciane) from the 15th century. It is, unlike the older Byzantine ones, round and was built to reinforce the existing fortifications.

More than a hundred metres from the tower stands a statue of the Unknown Soldier, one of the symbols of the city. Next to the tower begins the Epidamni Boulevard which is lined with palm trees and is one of the most pleasant streets in Durrës. This street has the highest density of stores, cafes, and restaurants in the city.

At the northern end of the boulevard is the main square, Sheshi Iliria. The city government and theatre buildings are located on opposing sides of the square. Behind the theatre, you will find the remains of a Roman forum, which probably dates from the 5th century AD and is set with 40 Corinthian columns. It is believed that this is where the road Via Egnatia once began. During the construction of the theatre in 1960, the remains of the Roman baths were excavated and can now be seen in the basement of the building.

The Fatih Mosque (Xhamia e Fatihut) is the oldest Islamic shrine in Durrës. It was built on the site of a Christian basilica in 1502, just a year after Durrës was conquered by the Turks. It is named after the Turkish sultan Mehmed II Fatih. During the socialist era, it fell into disrepair and the authorities had the minaret demolished. In 2011, the mosque underwent a thorough renovation.

Next to the mosque is the House of Alexandër Moisiu (Shtëpia e Aleksandër Moisiut, 9-13 Tue-Sat, 100 lek), one of the few remaining buildings in Durrës from the period of the Ottoman Empire. The tastefully restored two-storey house, which now serves as a museum, was once home to the Albanian actor Aleksandër Moisiu (1879-1935), who became famous for his work in many European countries in the first half of the 20th century. The exhibition includes photographs and documents related to his family and career, and a small ethnographic exhibition is attached to the museum.

The Roman amphitheatre is the most renowned landmark in Durrës and the largest structure of its sort in the Balkans. Built in the 2nd century AD, the elliptical structure was 60 by 40 metres and could accommodate up to 15,000 spectators. The admission is charged along with the Archaeological Museum which is located a few hundred metres west of the old town.

Directly above the old town is a hill, on top of which stands the Royal Villa or Zog’s Villa (Vila Mbretore or Vila e Zogut). The once luxurious villa was built in 1927 as a personal gift from local businessmen to the only Albanian king, Zog I. The ground plan resembles an Albanian eagle. The palace was looted during the 1997 riots and has been closed to the public ever since. A trip to it today, however, will reward you with a magnificent view of the city.

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