Old town of Elbasan

An aerial view reveals that Elbasan‘s old town dates back to the Roman era. Two main streets that are perpendicular to each other and intersect in the city centre give it a traditional square layout. Particularly impressive are the remaining walls with defensive towers to the west and south. The oldest mosque in Albania is located within the old town.

Like many Albanian city centres, Elbasan has almost completely lost its original oriental feel. It differs from the surrounding neighbourhoods only by its narrow streets and lower houses. Yet it has a charm that makes it worth a visit.

The preserved fortifications date back to Roman times. Later it was improved by the Turks, who made Elbasan their main stronghold when they conquered the territory of today’s Albania.

When you enter the city through the bazaar gate from Aqif Pasha Boulevard and walk into the city centre along Xhaferr Kongoli Street, after a hundred metres you will encounter the King Mosque (Xhamia e Mbretit), which is the oldest in all of Albania. It was built in 1492 by the Turks, who had occupied this part of the Balkans not long before. After 1967, when the communists banned religion in Albania, the mosque temporarily served as an agitation centre.

Another shrine of the old town is the Orthodox Church of the Virgin Mary (Kisha e Shën Marisë). On the site of the remnants of a church from 1486, a new three-aisled church was constructed at the start of the 19th century. It is said that the church only survived the anti-clerical campaign launched by the communists because the adjacent narrow streets made it impossible for bulldozers to drive through.

A stunning iconostasis with elaborate carvings may be found within. In front of the church is the tomb of Konstantine Kristoforidhi, a well-known Renaissance scholar from Albania who was the first to translate the New Testament and the Psalms into Albanian during the 19th century.

The structure housing the historic Turkish baths (hammams) is located on Aqif Pasha Street, just outside the old town walls. Although it was built in the 19th century, steam baths had existed there since the 1770s. There is now a café in the house. Ask the owner, and chances are good he’ll allow you to have a look inside.

One of the four passages through the walls into the old town leads directly to the Real Scampis hotel. If you descend a few steps, you will find yourself right in the archaeological site that was uncovered during it’s construction. The excavation site is now covered by the hotel terrace. The hotel’s beautiful garden includes a restored Roman theatre.

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