Apollonia

The ancient city of Apollonia is the largest archaeological site in Albania. Like Butrint in the south, it was completely abandoned after its demise with no further settlements having sprung up in its place. This gives a unique opportunity to explore the remains of the town in its original form. The symbol of Apollonia is the remnants of a town hall with typical ancient columns. The Albanian government is seeking to inscribe Apollonia on UNESCO‘s World Heritage List.

Apollonia is located on a hill above the coastal plain roughly halfway between Fier and the Adriatic Sea. The site is open daily from 9:00 to 17:00 in October to March and 8:00 to 20:00 in April to September. When travelling by car, head from Fier towards the village of Pojan, from which a road leads to the parking lot of the monastery. You can’t get to Apollonia by public transport, but you can take a taxi (12 km) in Fier.

At the entrance, you will see a large map to help you find your way around. In addition to Albanian, the descriptions are also in French and English. Allow plenty of time for the tour, as it’s easy to spend half a day wandering through the picturesque landscape. The complex includes two restaurants, with the one named Léon Rey being particularly worth stopping by. Situated on a hill above the agora, it offers spectacular views of the surrounding area.

History of Apollonia

Apollonia was founded in 588 BC by Greek colonists from Kerkyra (Corfu) and Corinth and took its name from the god Apollo, who, according to Greek mythology, had power over the light and the sun and was also the protector of the colonists. It is spread over two hills and their surroundings – on one of the hills was the sanctuary of Apollo and on the other the Acropolis.

The city grew up on the territory inhabited by the Illyrians, who were in close contact with the Greeks back then. The Greeks are also said to have formed a significant part of the population of Apollonia. It is estimated that as many as 60,000 people lived here in its heyday, protected by a stone wall up to five kilometres long. In addition to agriculture from the fertile Myzeqea plain, the city was also a hub for the trade of slaves and natural asphalt. The nearby port on the Vjosa River, about two kilometres from the sea, was used.

At the end of the 3rd century BC, the city fell under the Roman Empire and served as an important outpost to expand into the interior of the Balkan Peninsula. The southern branch of the Via Egnatia trade route ran through the city.

A devastating earthquake dealt Apollonia a fatal blow in the 4th century AD. It altered the course of the Viosa River and left the important port dry. With no connection to the trade route, the city began to decline and was abandoned soon after.

The discovery of the meanwhile-forgotten Apollonia began in the interwar period. Between 1934 and 1938, a team of French archaeologists Léon Rey worked here. France continued to support archaeological work here financially after 1990. In 2006, Apollonia was declared an archaeological park.

It is estimated that only a tenth of the original city’s buildings have been uncovered so far.

Sightseeing route

Next to the main car park is the only building from the earlier than ancient period: the Byzantine Monastery of the Virgin Mary (Manastiri i Shën Merisë). The central 13th-century church was built of brick and partly stone blocks from the former ancient theatre. The combination of these two building materials is very unusual and unique in Albania. The outer narthex (vestibule) consists of Doric columns from the former ancient temple.

The adjacent 14th-century refectory is decorated with some of the best-preserved and most complete medieval frescoes in Albania. On the grounds of the monastery, there is also a museum featuring ancient artefacts that will give you a taste of what to expect at the archaeological park.

The focal point of the excavations in Apollonia is the Agora, where the iconic building of the entire city is located – the portal of the bouleuterion (town hall) made up of ancient columns and a typical triangular gable. There are also remains of many other buildings in the Agora, such as the Odeon (theatre), the library, the triumphal arch, the temple of the goddess Diana or the obelisk dedicated to the city’s patron Apollo.

On an elevation to the north lies the Acropolis, which used to be surrounded by an inner wall and was the place of refuge for the population in case of attack. As you walk down the hill of the acropolis towards the west, you will come across the Nymphaeum on a steep slope hiding several springs and fountains that are still active today. There was once a water reservoir here, from which the life-giving liquid was drained to various parts of the city. It is the best-preserved building in the entire archaeological complex and is decorated with a series of Doric columns in its façade. On the way back to the agora you will pass the remains of the theatre. You can only guess its main outline, as the stone was used in the construction of the nearby monastery.

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