Kurvelesh is one of the most beautiful regions in southern Albania, renowned mainly for its majestic canyons, unspoiled nature and welcoming locals. The little-visited region may now be easily reached from both the Albanian Riviera and the Vjosa Valley, making it an ideal destination for a day trip from both directions. The region is also known as one of the centres of Albanian polyphony, and folk singing, which has been listed as a World Heritage by UNESCO.
The village of Nivicë is a great place to spend a day or more. It is part of the “100 Villages” project, which is an initiative by the Albanian government to promote rural tourism. Nivicë has several guesthouses, the best of which is the Guesthouse on Canyon, run by the Merjo family. You couldn’t think of a more beautiful place: It is located on the very edge of a cliff. The views from here are fantastic, as is the organic home-cooked food. It is also possible to stay in a tent here.
Several marked hiking routes start in Nivicë, including the one that leads to the Nivica Canyon (30 minutes one way, see map). There is a waterfall in the canyon and a pool underneath it, perfect for swimming.
Nivicë can be reached by asphalt road from Tepelenë via Bënça Valley where you can make a stop by the historic aqueduct and the Bektashi tekke. Beyond the village of Bënçë, the road climbs in several serpentines to a Kurvelesh plateau. Near the village of Progonat, the terrain is most dramatic: the walls of one of the lateral canyons are several hundred metres high. Don’t miss the spectacular Peshtura Waterfall (Ujëvara e Peshturës), it is just about a ten-minute walk from the road.
The minibus departs from Tepelenë to Nivicë every day at noon, returning from Nivicë at 6:00 am the following day.
There is also an alternative paved road from Tepelenë to Nivicë via the village of Salari. Make a short stop at the small bektashi shrine in the Kresha Pass (1097 m) that offers nice views of the Kurvelesh plateau.
Kurvelesh can also be reached by car from the west, with a new scenic asphalt road from Kuç in the Shushica Valley. Kuç is newly connected with good roads with the Albanian Riviera and Vlorë. It’s about an hour’s drive from the coast to Kurvelesh.
Cover photo Vojtěch Kolínský
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