Orikum

Known for its picturesque setting on the shore of Vlora Bay, Orikum combines a charming seaside atmosphere with historical significance. Visitors can explore archaeological remains, such as city walls and amphitheatre, providing a glimpse into the area’s rich history. The town is also appreciated for its beaches, offering a relaxing coastal experience. It also serves as a gateway to the nearby Karaburun Peninsula. Military lovers come here to see the Pashaliman naval base, one of two in Albania.

The ancient settlement of Oricum was founded by Greek colonists in the 6th century BC. Due to its convenient location and the harbour protected by the Karaburun Peninsula, it quickly became an important settlement of the area. The town itself was built on a low hill situated between the sea and the Pashaliman Lagoon. You can see the remains of a theatre, which once held up to 400 people. An impressive staircase that leads from the theatre to the acropolis has been partially repaired.

When entering the archaeological park you must pass through checkpoint due to the fact that it is a military area. Personnel only let visitors in on weekdays from 8:00 to 16:00.

On the south side of the lagoon stands the picturesque 13th-century Marmiroi Church (Kisha e Marmiroit) which is adorned with beautiful frescoes. Thanks to its position on a hill in the middle of the coastal wetlands, it can be seen from far away.

There are two beaches at Orikum: The first one is next to the naval base, about two kilometres from the centre. It is home to a couple of restaurants and simple guesthouses. The second, which is located by the yacht marina along the road to Vlorë, is the scene of a building boom.

To the west of the archaeological park, at the foot of the Karaburun is the Pashaliman Naval Base (Baza Ushtarake e Pashalimanit). It became particularly important in the 1950s, when the Soviet Union used it as an anchorage for its submarines, the only one in the entire Mediterranean. After a rift between Tirana and Moscow, Albanian dictator Enver Hoxha appropriated four of the submarines despite threats from the Kremlin. The last submarine was decommissioned only in 2003 and is still moored at one of the port piers. The base was looted during the 1997 riots, later repaired and now serves NATO’s needs. The base is closed to visitors but can be viewed from the Oricum archaeological site or the Karaburun Peninsula.

The Marmiroi Church serves as the starting point for marked hiking trails on the nearby Karaburun Peninsula. The most popular destination is the secluded Brisan Bay (Gjiri i Brisanit), accessible via a well-maintained trail that crosses the ridge running along the peninsula (route here). The hike takes approximately two hours each way, passing by a series of bunkers, and rewards travelers with breathtaking views. However, most of the remaining mapped trails that descend from the ridge to the peninsula’s western coast are heavily overgrown with thorny bushes, making them unsuitable for trekking.

Anyone interested in the military history of Albania should not miss the village of Tragjas i Vjetër on the hill above Orikum. Due to the alleged presence of British saboteurs, the Germans completely burned it down in 1944 and the inhabitants never returned. Walking among the dozens of crumbled houses, of which only the outer walls remain, gives an extremely strong impression.

Frequent minibuses operate between Orikum and Vlorë via Radhimë. The bus stop in Vlorë is located opposite Riviera Shopping Centre. The journey takes about half an hour.

Cover photo by Jan Hromádko

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